After The Rain...

The old bromide says that you should be careful what you wish for because you may get it certainly applies to me today. I wished for more rain, and it came yesterday evening. Unfortunately, it came in the form several violent downbursts, with winds about 60 mph and 1.60 inches of rain in less than 20 minutes.

Downbursts have vertically circulating circles of air with wind speeds up to 60 mph, driving rain vertically and then horizontally in a vortex ring. The end result of our downbursts were seven Chilean Mesquites and two Willow Acacias uprooted, sixteen potted cacti blown over and out of their pots, lawn furniture tossed and damaged, and standing water everywhere in my garden. Many neighbors also have uprooted trees and other damage, and our next-door neighbor’s huge gazebo collapsed into his swimming pool.

Since Arizona has few natural disasters other than a very rare flood, one never expects to see such violent weather activity, even during the Arizona monsoon. Compared to some of the weather related disasters that have occurred around the world, this event wouldn’t even register, but it makes me sad to lose trees and plants.

The landscape maintenance crew will be over today to see if any of the trees are salvageable, and I’ll be repotting the cacti. “Que sera sera” with the trees. At least I won’t be trying to get a 20 x 20 foot gazebo out of the pool, as my neighbor will be doing.

Spruce Cone Cholla Thrives On Neglect

Tephrocactus articulatus var. diadematus 'inermis'

Spruce Cone Cholla

Last year as I was leaving a cactus nursery, I saw a segment of Spruce Cone Cholla (Tephrocactus articulatus var. diadematus 'inermis') lying on the ground in the parking lot. It appeared to have been there for quite some time, as it was quite dehydrated and wrinkly. Obviously, it had come off someone’s purchase during transport to his or her vehicle. It was surprising that it hadn’t been flattened in the busy parking lot.

Since this form of T. articulatus doesn’t have any spines, (“inermis” derives from the Latin adjective meaning unarmed or spineless) I picked up the segment with my bare hands and took it home. Segments of T. articulatus easily separate from the main cactus and readily root, so I placed the segment in full sun, barely touching the soil under the landscape granite. Within two weeks, it had formed a bud and flowered. Although the segment sort of blends in with the gravel in the photo, it is easy to see that it was still in its dehydrated state. Dehydration does not stop flowering.

Since then, this Spruce Cone Cholla has grown to one foot tall with nine segments. It is nice, plump, and thriving. I watered this cactus sparingly for a couple of months until it had rooted, and then stopped completely. It needs no supplemental water, other than that from an occasional rain.

There are five species in the genus Tephrocactus, sometimes classified under the Opuntia genus. None of the five is frost sensitive. The T. articulatus species has several varieties in addition to the one described here. I wrote about one of those varieties in another post.

One Striking Flower

Gazania rigens 'Daybreak Red Stripe'

Sometimes the most common perennials have the most striking flowers. An example is the Gazania rigens, or Treasure Flower. It is used in the Phoenix area as an annual in resort hotel flowerbeds and in housing development common areas, and the Daybreak Red Stripe is the most popular cultivar. It is also sold as Tiger Gazania.

The dozen or so Gazania plants I had in my garden, having finished their natural lifespan, died out this past spring, so I will reseed their beds this coming winter. The Gazania plants are the first flowers I get in very early spring, and I especially love the Red Stripe.

Gazanias, which strongly resemble daisies, do not work as cut flowers as daisies do because their stems are too short. In addition, the flowers close at sunset, and never even open on cloudy days, so they just won’t do in the house. What a shame.

Meet Little John, From Down Under

Callistemon viminalis 'Little John'

Australian plants do well in Arizona, as the climate there is similar to ours. Most desert gardens have at least three or four different varieties of "Aussie" natives. In my garden, I have several types of Emu Bush, Willow Acacia trees, and some Dwarf Bottlebrush shrubs, (Callistemon viminalis 'Little John').

The Dwarf Bottlebrush is a low mounding shrub that grows very slowly and will eventually reach about three feet tall with a five-foot spread. Since I don't want my shrubs to be sprawling, I prune them minimally in late autumn. They have attractive foliage and a bottlebrush-like red flower that blooms in early spring, then periodically through summer. Hummingbirds love them, but are sometimes hesitant to swoop in so low, so will choose other flowering plants before this one.

There are a couple of problems with the Dwarf Bottlebrush. It seems to collect more dust than other plants in my garden, so it always looks dusty. I think that's because the leaves are somewhat hairy. Although it does well here, it prefers a more humid environment where it can really thrive. It is also somewhat frost sensitive. Every year, I have to trim back a few frost-damaged tips, but even the hard freeze we had this past winter didn't severely affect it.

This little shrub is like a miniature version of the Bottle Brush Tree--same flower, same foliage, and same frost sensitivity. Like the Bottle Brush Tree, the pollen is an allergen, so sensitive folks may want to skip this shrub, as well as the tree.

Bishop's Cap Cactus

Astrophytum myriostigma

The Bishop’s Cap, or Star Cactus, (Astrophytum myriostigma) is a spineless, five-ribbed cactus that is easy to grow in Phoenix, but it’s not a common landscape cactus here. Most end up as potted specimens because of the unusual shape and coloring. I put this specimen in the garden just this year, and it’s doing very well and flowering regularly. I also have several more in containers that may also go into the garden next spring.

The A. myriostigma will not retain the bishop’s cap shape as it ages. It becomes columnar, and can reach about two feet at maturity. The A. myriostigma can have between three to eight ribs, but five, like the one in the photo, is the usual number. Collectors love finding specimens with differing numbers of ribs.

The cactus has little wooly areoles located on the ribs, but no spines. The whitish scales, or flecks, cover the skin of the cactus and act as a natural sunscreen. The scales sometimes flake off, giving the cactus a mottled appearance. Pale yellow flowers come in spring and summer, and have a very nice fragrance. They last about four days, opening during the day and closing at night.

As with so many cacti, it is important to keep the A. myriostigma dry in winter to prevent root rot. It can take full sun in Phoenix after acclimation, and is fertilized in summer—if fast growth is wanted. If placed in light shade, the cactus becomes greener and doesn't grow as fast.

The Astrophytum genus is small, containing only five known species. Four species are readily available at cactus nurseries, and there are endless varieties and hybrids, especially of the A. asterias. All the Astrophytum species are native to the central and northern plateaus of Mexico, where the Tarahumare Indians used the A. myriostigma as a peyote substitute. The cactus does contain unspecified alkaloids, but probably not enough to produce any hallucinogenic “magic carpet rides” for the more daring collector.

Cactus Color Counts

Mammillaria spinosissima

Is there any doubt as to why this Mammillaria spinosissima is called the Red-Headed Irishman? The dark, copper colored spines definitely have the look of redhead with a brush cut.

The spines on this specimen are some of the reddest I've seen of this species. As it gets older, it will become columnar and the spine color may be less pronounced, but it should always retain the reddish hue. The spine color of the M. spinosissima can vary, depending on the subspecies, from a translucent white (M. spinosissima ssp. pilcayensis) to a yellowish brown (M. spinosissima ssp. tepoxlana.) The spines are very soft and flexible, and one can brush against them without much fear.


Originally from Mexico, the M. spinosissima needs light shade and winter warmth in Phoenix. In spring, it produces dark pink flowers in the typical ring pattern of the Mammillaria genera. The subspecies have flowers that range from magenta to fuchsia.


This past spring, members of our local Cactus and Succulent Society were asked to bring in at least five plants for the annual show. Since I have so few mature or truly exotic plants, I almost decided to skip the competition, but at the last minute, I picked out five of my nicest looking commonplace cacti, hauled them down to the show and, lo and behold, this M. spinosissima won a First Place ribbon for its division. I think it what did it was the exceptionally red spines.

At Long Last, Rain, And More!

The Monsoon thunderstorms have finally begun, and with those seasonal wind shifts, the possibility (or more accurately—probability) of wind damage to many landscape trees. The first storm of the season hit my area yesterday, and brought this unsalvageable damage to one of my Willow Acacia (Acacia salicina) trees. The tree is a goner--it lost its crown of all things. I would have expected some degree of damage to the Chilean Mesquites or the Desert Museum Palo Verdes, but not the Willow Acacia, which is far more flexible.

All desert trees used in landscaping are susceptible to wind damage because they get regular water. In habitat, with only occasional rainwater, they are very slow growers, which give them a chance to form deep roots and strong wood. Regular watering causes very fast growth, shallow roots and brittle wood, but then, you get fast shade. That's the tradeoff—shade for probable damage during the seasonal storms. Most homeowners are more interested in shade.

It could have been worse. On the way to town this morning, I saw at least five Mesquites and Palo Verdes completely uprooted—a common occurrence—and several more with broken branches. So, having lost only one tree, I feel lucky this time around. The season is just starting, and every year, it’s a waiting game to see what the next storm brings.

On the bright side, with the windstorm came our first rain in 101 days. It has been raining all around us for a couple of weeks, and then, we finally got one-twentieth of an inch. Folks from other parts wouldn't even call that a rain, but at least it was enough to wash the dust off the plants in my garden.

I’m happy about the rain, and I’m not too upset about the loss of the Willow Acacia. When the landscapers put it in my garden, they erred and placed it 25 feet from where it was supposed to go according to the landscape plan. Eventually it would have interfered with the crown of a Palo Verde, so both would have taken regular, extensive pruning to accomodate the space. In a way, this storm actually saved me some time and expense.

Dwarf Chin: A Veritable Flower Factory

Gymnocalycium baldianum

The most prodigiously flowering cactus in my collection is this Gymnocalycium baldianum, commonly called Dwarf Chin. I described the trials and tribulations of this particular cactus in an earlier post and I just can't stop gushing about its attributes.

This species is popular because it usually has red flowers, but you never know what you'll get until it blooms for the first time. I bought it because I wanted red flowers, but that wasn't to be. The flower color on G. baldianum can range from bright red through white, although most of the G. baldianum flowers that I've seen are in the pink range, like my specimen.

My specimen is now over five years old with four heads, still in its first permanent pot, with room to grow. The heads on this cactus are all larger than average at three inches and more. This cactus takes the extreme heat of Phoenix, and it withstood our record cold of this past winter. It flowers almost continuously for over five months a year. It will occasionally take a week's rest before forming another round of buds, but then will burst out in bloom for weeks on end.

An unusual feature of my cactus is the flower color range from year to year. This year's pink is quite a change from last year's salmon. Each head has flowers that are slightly different in color from its sibling, but all retain the color theme of the year. I have wondered if a variation in weather conditions or fertilizing schedules, or even the minerals in the water cause this color variation from year to year. Whatever it is, I'm glad it happens, because every year brings a surprise.

Silken Pincushion

Mammillaria bombycina

I can't wait until my Silken Pincushion cactus (M. bombycina) starts producing flowers. This will probably occur next spring, at least on some of the larger heads. The flowering time from seed is two to four years, and this specimen is now three years old. In addition to the expected flower show, I especially like the arrangement of the numerous white radial spines that bristle out as if a star burst.

The M. bombycina produces numerous heads (the little white clump to the right is another head forming) and each of those heads will have a ring of 1/2- inch, enduring pink flowers near the crown. At a recent Cactus and Succulent Society show, I saw a mature specimen in a 14-inch pot with at least 28 heads. Every head was in full bloom, and it was stunning.

This cactus comes from the high mountains of Western and Central Mexico, so it can take lower winter temperatures than many of the other Mammillaria species. It needs moderate summer water and light shade in Phoenix. I keep it dry in winter to prevent rot.

This Mammillaria species is supposedly popular with new collectors, but around the Phoenix area, it is hard to find except in cactus nurseries, and I've never seen it planted in a garden. If I could find a couple of larger ones, I'd like to try them under the canopy of a Palo Verde tree.

Garden Tour Cactus Flower

This gorgeous Echinocereus fasciculatus, commonly known as the Robust Hedgehog, was featured at one of the gardens I visited during a recent Sedona, Arizona garden tour. (Notice the famous red soil of the area.)

The brilliant magenta flowers found on some of the Hedgehog species was just the color I had been looking for when I purchased and planted what I thought was a Strawberry Hedgehog (Echinocereus engelmannii) earlier this year.Hedgehog cacti are found in the deserts of Arizona and New Mexico. The clumping, columnar Hedgehog cactus is nondescript, except for the flowers. It can grow to 20 inches, but usually stays about 12 inches tall. The long lasting flowers come in spring, and depending on the species, has numerous colors from which to choose (or not choose, as I found out.) It takes no care unless we don't get rain in the summer months. In that case, an occasional watering is OK.



The fruit is edible, and makes a good meal for birds and desert rodents. I've never tried the fruit, which supposedly tastes like strawberries, but that's only because the birds always beat me to it.

Silver Balls, Silver Balls

The Parodia scopa (Silver Ball Cactus) is especially valued for its white hairy spines and white wooly areoles. It freely offsets, and quickly fills its container, making it an attractive specimen in a short time. This cactus has grown six new offsets in this summer growing season alone.

In the summer, I water the P. scopa frequently, but I rarely water it in the winter. If it is watered too much in the winter, it easily loses its roots and may rot. Otherwise, it is an easy care cactus, only needing an occasional dose of fertilizer in its summer growth period.

The P. scopa is native to Brazil and Uruguay, and has pale yellow flowers that appear at the crown of each head in the spring and summer months. Although the flowers are not large, if all the offsets bloom at the same time, it can be quite spectacular for such a small cactus.

When visitors stop by, this specimen seems to catch their eye more often than many of the other cacti in my collection. I always ask why this particular cactus appeals to them, because I think I have others that are far more impressive. Most mention it reminds them of a dish of Christmas tree ornaments, and that thought makes them happy. Now that's an unusual benefit of a cactus!

Southwest Sundries

Cell Tower--Arizona Style

This cell tower, disguised as a Mexican Fan Palm (Washingtonia robusta) popped up recently in our neighborhood. The only giveaway from a distance was its height, compared to the many shorter palms in the area, but it was still within the range of possibility as the Mexican Fan Palm can reach 100 feet. It's really a good replica, and certainly better than a bare cell tower. I've also seen a couple of towers disguised as 60 foot Saguaros (Carnegiea gigantea) but those wouldn't fool anyone. Too tall, too green and the arms just weren't right.


Low-rider Lizards?

The Desert Spiny Lizard (Sceloporus magisteris) a common sight in my garden. There are dozens of them, and that's fine with me. They eat crickets and other insects and for the most part just mind their own business. I do like to watch them, because they have many little tricks. Their push up movements reminds me of low rider cars doing their thing with the hydraulic lifts. The lizards also do some head bobbing and puffing up. As kids, we thought the push ups were to keep their little bodies off the hot rocks, but it turns out that the movements are signals for courting, communicating among their own kind, and showing dominance over other lizard tribes or romantic rivals.

Thorny Issue--Cactus Sticker Removal

As a cactus lover, I've had my share of stickers over the years, and not just in my hands. I've fallen into a cactus patch with some serious damage to my legs and backside, and I've even had a barb in my cheek. I was lucky not to have put out an eye! I've found that the best way to remove Opuntia glochids, which have rearward angled microscopic barbs, is to use regular white household glue. Generously coat the affected area, wait until completely dry, and then peel it off. Most of the glochids will come out onto the glue. You will know it if spine fragments remain under the skin, but there's not much more to do at home. It sometimes takes two to eight months for the discomfort from the embedded barb fragments to go away. If it is really painful or looks infected, a trip to the doctor is usually necessary so that the little bumps can be "unroofed," as my doctor called the procedure.

I've found the best defense against thorns, glochids, and barbs is GardenArmor™ Garden Gloves. Unlike leather, which is easily penetrated, the special coating on these gloves prevents entry of even the toughest spine. The material is thin enough so that it's easy to remain dexterous.

Garden Center Mamma

Mammillaria duoformis F. tenango de valle

The garden centers of the big box home improvement and super discount stores are great places to find small specimens of the more common Mammillaria species. Whether you live in Maine or California, you can always find about 11 or so species in two or four-inch plastic pots, usually sopping wet from daily watering.

I've often wondered what percentage of the cacti stock in these stores goes in the trash because of rot! Several cactus collectors I know actually rummage around in various trash bins to rescue tossed specimens and nurse them to health. I don't intend to do that, but I'm not above asking for an exorbitant discount for sad looking specimens that look like they could survive with some help. One time I got 12 cacti and succulent specimens for a buck.

The Mammillaria duoformis F. tenango de valle is one such bargain. It was covered in wet soil and debris, and wasn't even in a pot. The reason I wanted it was that although I'd seen M. duoformis before in the garden centers, I'd never seen the tenango de valle form, which has white flowers rather than the red flowers of the M. duoformis regular form. I especially liked this cactus because of the very dark, hooked central spines. It has yet to bloom, but it has already produced several clumps.

The M. duoformis F. tenango de valle is from Puebla, Mexico, and requires light shade in Phoenix and protection from frost. It is a columnar cactus with age, but stays small, getting to about four inches tall.

I think it's worked out to be a good eight-cent investment.

Parodia rutilans--Pink Ball Cactus

The Parodia rutilans, whose origin is Uruguay, has beautiful pink flowers that are long lasting compared to other cacti I have in my collection. The flowers, which seem to bloom three, four, or five at a time in early spring, can last up to a week.

The P. rutilans, commonly called the Pink Ball Cactus, is one of 25 species formerly classified as members of the Notocactus genus. In the late 1980s, the Notocactus genus, along with seven other genera, was combined into the Parodia genus, much to the dismay of growers and collectors. One of the problems of combining several genera into one larger genus is that many of the cacti in a former genus have specific care requirements that are different from those of other formerly separate genera, who are all now called Parodia.

Former Notocactus species are grown for their spine formations as much as for the flowers. If you look closely at the spine formation on the P. rutilans in the photo, you can see the long central spines in very precise vertical rows.

The P. rutilans should be kept warm and on the dry side in winter, and watered regularly in summer. I keep it in light shade in the summer in Phoenix.

Another Blooming Barrel

Ferocactus cylindraceus

This barrel is the Ferocactus cylindraceus, or Compass Barrel. In my July 15 post, I described the Ferocactus wislizenii as my favorite barrel cactus because of its orange-red flowers, but these flowers are also attractive.

The flowers on this cactus are much like the F. wislizenii, but more yellow than orange. Other than the flower color, I don’t see a lot of difference in the two when counting the ribs, radial and central spines. I wouldn't be surprised if they are both F. wislizenii. As a hobbyist, all I have to go by in determining each species is what the labels list when I purchase them, and then reading about their characteristics in my reference books to confirm.

Interestingly, some sources say that the F. wislizenii is the true Compass Barrel (named that because of its tendency to lean south as time goes by,) and not the F. cylindraceus, as commonly thought, and that the F. cylindraceus grows straight up. Since different sources have opposite opinions, I've just given up trying to figure out who carries the most weight in these matters. In the whole scheme of things, I suppose it doesn’t really matter, except to the scientists and purists. I'm just going to enjoy the flowers.

The African Milk Barrel

The Euphorbia horrida, or African Milk Barrel, is a commonly found South African Euphorb that has an unusual color. In the summer, this plant produces tiny green and yellow cyathia. The “spines” with the little balls on the end in the photo are not actually spines, but the dried stalks and cyathia from its earlier flowering. It is a hardy plant that needs little care, other than an occasional watering.

Don’t you think this is a good match for plant and pot? The pot seems to reflect the color of the plant quite nicely and the worn places on the pot have the same color value of the “spines.”

One might think that this plant is “horrid” in some way because of the name. Horrida actually means prickly, but as with all in the Euphorbia genus, it has a milky, corrosive sap that really can be quite horrid if you get it in your mouth or eyes.

There are several Latin-based botanical names that conjure up images for me of nastiness or unpleasantness. Horrida is one, another, vulgaris, which doesn’t mean vulgar, it means common. Another is pusilla, meaning insignificant. Then, there’s foetidissima, which does have a meaning that rather matches the word. It means very fetid, stinking, or evil smelling.

What’s in a name. That which we call a rose

By any other name would smell as sweet.
~ Shakesphere

Arizona Barrel

The Ferocactus wislizenii, or Arizona Barrel, is one of the 30 species found within the genus. The Arizona Barrel has the most attractive flowers in my view, so I have several, along with four others from the genus. All the other Ferocactus species I have produce yellow flowers, so when the F. wislizenii blooms in late summer I’m quite happy.

Cacti in the Ferocactus genus are all barrels, but some can become cylindrical with age. They are found in the Southwest and northwestern Mexico. This genus must have maximum sun exposure and can survive for very long periods without water, making it completely carefree in a xeriscape desert garden.

Most folks are more familiar with the F. cylindraceus (Compass Barrel) because of its growth habit. It slants toward the south to get the most sun exposure, so the south side grows faster than the north side, giving the cactus a characteristic tilt. Some believe that it twists itself out of the ground doing this, but that’s untrue. It just makes a good story for tourists.

Prickly Fascination

Mammillaria marksiana

As a cactus aficionado, I love the detail and structure of cacti. I marvel at the flawless symmetry presented in the endless variety of spines and tubercles, to say nothing of the flowers! Cacti are like living sculptures and works of art. In the Cactaceae family, there are 93 genera and over 2000 species identified so far, and probably more to be discovered and crossed, hybridized, and cloned. Many are similar, but on closer examination, there can be infinite natural differences within a species. Just like people.

The Mammillaria marksiana (Cabeza de Viejo) shown in the photo is a great example of symmetry. In this cactus, the spirally arranged prominent tubercles form a clear wheel-like pattern that seems to be moving when you stare at it. The wooly axils help guide the eye to its spiral shape. The M. marksiana has yellow flowers that form in a ring pattern on the previous year’s growth. It blooms in late winter, with the resulting green fruit ripening in summer. Originally from Mexico, it grows under the protection of nurse plants there. In Phoenix it requires light shade and little water.

Of the thousands of cacti to choose from, the next one I'd like to acquire is a Neolloydia valdeziana, with miniscule, feathery spines and violet flowers. It is a tiny beauty from Mexico, but I have yet to find one. I guess cactus collectors are no different than rose lovers or dahlia dabblers. There's always one more you just gotta have!

My Little Big Foot

Yesterday, I finally brought in my Gerrardanthus macrorhizus from the patio because the super heated wind gusts were just too much for the tender, ivy-like leaves. It had been doing all right outside, even with our 110˚ plus days, but Thursday’s hot wind and low humidity quickly dried many of the new leaves. Since I waited too long to bring it in, I will now have to cut back the 36 inch vines to about 12 inches. Trimming won’t hurt it, and the vines will grow back in short order.

G. macrorhizus is an African caudiform with a large, rounded tuberous root that looks like a rock. Its common name is Big Foot, in reference to the large caudex. In habitat, the caudex can reach five feet in diameter, and the vines can grow to around 30 feet. Even as a potted plant, the caudex grows rapidly, and the size of the container dictates how large it can get. I want mine to stay in its present pot for a few years, so I expect it to double in size in this pot as time passes.

This caudiform is easy to grow indoors and I do bring it in during the winter months because the vines won’t take temperatures below 40˚. I put it back on the patio in early spring and leave it out as long as the vines can take the heat. I could leave it in the house year-round as it is an excellent houseplant, but the long vines tangle and grab anything around them, so it’s hard for me to find a good place for it. Trimming controls the runaway vines, and in late fall I’ll cut them very short so that next spring, I can train the new vines onto its little pot trellis.

G. macrorhizus needs lots of water when it has vines, as well as regular fertilizer in the summer. Although my plant has yet to produce flowers, when they come, they will be small, dark yellow, and look somewhat like orchids.

A garden is always a series of losses set against a few triumphs, like life itself.

~ May Sarton

Cotton Candy and Toothpicks?

Although this cactus reminds me of a stick of cotton candy that’s been stuck full of toothpicks, it is actually an Espostoa melanostele, a columnar cactus native to the Andes of Peru. The white wooly spines look like a mat of hair, and the longer, sharp central spines protrude from the wool. One purpose served by the wooly spines and long central spines is to act as a water collection system after a rain. The wooly spines collect moisture and the long central spines collect droplets of water that then drip down from the spines to the shallow roots. The wooly spines also act as protection from sunburn.

The E. melanostele is very rot prone, so planting in well-draining soil is necessary. It is also cold sensitive, and won’t take temperatures under 50˚. Other than these few caveats, it is an easy to grow potted cactus. It won't do well in the ground in a desert garden because our winter nights can occasionally reach into the 20s and 30s Fahrenheit. In habitat it will grow to seven feet tall.

There are 16 species in the Espostoa genus. After 10 to 30 years in age, they reach flowering size. At that point, a thick beard of white wool grows on one side of the upper stem, and from this beard, stinky flowers appear, followed by red berries. Though this doesn’t happen often in cultivation, I’ve seen this process at our local Desert Botanical Garden. It is quite a sight (and smell!)

Several species of Espostoa are frequently entered into Cactus and Succulent Society shows because of the wooly spines, which are popular with the crowds. Some exhibitors go so far as to shampoo and then blow dry the wool so that it is clean, fluffy and white. In the last show I attended, a Peruvian Old Man Cactus (E. lanata) had the beauty treatment, and it won a blue ribbon. Obviously, pampering pays off!

Pipes and Slippers

The Pedilanthus macrocarpus, commonly known as Lady Slipper, is a slow growing plant that is part of a small genus within the Euphorbiaceae family. It is heat and drought tolerant, making it an ideal succulent for Arizona's low desert.

When planted among globular and pad-stemmed cacti, its pipelike stems and lime green color well-complement the various shapes of cacti and other succulents. It looks especially nice planted in linear groupings. It is also looks good and does well in pots.

The P. macrocarpus can take full sun, however, in full sun the stems can change from their characteristic lime green color to a yellow. They do best in dappled shade. When planted in full sun, the stems remain upright; in shade the stems arch and curve, actually adding even more interesting contrast to surrounding plants. In the summer, red cyathia, supposedly shaped like a lady's slipper, appear on the stems. (I've looked at the cyathia from every angle and I just don't see any slipper resemblance!) Hummingbirds love the cyathia.

Although ideal for our climate, the Lady Slipper is not readily available in local nurseries, and when it is, it is a bit expensive. I was able to get only one plant a couple of years ago, but the two nurseries I frequent never have it in stock when I'm shopping for more. When a plant does well in our climate zone, it amazes me that the nurseries understock it, while they always seem to have dozens of plants that are very inappropriate for the desert. Those plants don't have a chance in hell of making it planted in the garden, and usually will not make it as houseplants because of the extremely low humidity. Someone must be buying them. I guess there's a sucker born every minute.

Mammillaria Microhelia: A Collector's Favorite

This columnar Mammillaria is popular with collectors because of its radial spines, which look like little starbursts, and its central spines, which are almost black. Another thing I like--the little lumps that form on the stems that will grow to become additional stems.

In some M. microhelia, the radial spines can be a golden color and the central spines reddish. The spine colors can change as the cactus gets older, sometimes for the better, sometimes not. You never know until they change. The M. microhelia has tiny, pale yellow flowers that form a ring around the stems. The flowering period here is about mid-April.

This native of Mexico is a bit prone to rot, so I keep my three in shallow pots in partial shade. Even with the tendency to rot, regular watering is necessary in summer. The M. microhelia just doesn’t like long periods of wetness.

M. Microhelia is one of the cacti that looks great when young, but as it ages, the stems become woody looking around the base. Unlike many cactus specimens that are kept for years, this is one that’s best replaced after several years, unless bald, ugly stem bases aren’t esthetically displeasing.

Seven Random Things About Me

I have been tagged by Beth at Morning Glories to participate in the meme, Seven Random Things About Me. Since this is a garden blog I've kept my items on topic.

I am unusual species--an Arizona native. Natives of adult age are getting rarer, and make up only 20 percent of Arizona's population.

You can't be an Arizona native and escape the lure of cacti and succulents, and I have quite a collection, both potted and planted in my garden. My favorites are various species of the Mammillaria, Opuntia, and Echinopsis genera.

Given my druthers, I'd much rather live on the Oregon or northern California coasts about six months out of the year. I don't think about this until the heat hits and my garden goes into summer dormancy. I start doing research and making plans, and after a few months when the weather cools, I can't imagine why I would want to live anywhere else.

I have a 3/4 acre property, but would prefer to have an adobe Tucson barrio-style home and garden. This particular style is similar to those found in central Mexico, where the house really doesn't have front or back yards, just several courtyard gardens surrounded with 10-12 foot walls. The front courtyard walls are set back from the sidewalks only about 4 feet and have a solid entry gate. The small area from the sidewalk to wall is usually planted with cacti. The interior gardens are lush and green, with a variety of tropical and southwest plants. Each courtyard, usually one in front, back and side, has its own garden theme.

I have an addiction to wind chimes. I have quite a few, and can't go to sleep unless I can hear wind chimes tinkling outside my bedroom window.

I read, research and write far too much about plants, gardens, landscape design, and in season, I’ll attend every garden tour I can find, far and near. It's a good thing I'm retired! And, on a different subject, this is my very first meme!

My first priority has always been to complete my landscaping before decorating. In every home I've owned I've always made sure I had a great garden first because I find a barren landscape so depressing. I'd rather spend money on landscaping, hardscaping, cacti and yard art than house stuff.

Here are the rules: Each player starts with seven random facts/habits about themselves. Tagged people then need to report this on their own blog with their seven random facts as well as these rules. They then need to tag seven others and list their names on their blog, then leave a comment for each of the tagged to let them know that they have been tagged and to read the blog.

Here's whom I've tagged:

The Green Fingered Photographer

My Grandpa's Garden

Ms. Green Thumb Jean

My Iowa Garden

Gotta Garden

Our Little Acre

Miss Flower

Echiniopsis Surprise

Echinopsis sp.

Monadenium Dormancy Dilemma

This spineless Monadenium ritchiei is doing well on my patio where it’s exposed to northern light. I’ve had it outside since very early spring, and it continues to do well, even in our extreme heat, as long as I provide regular water and some occasional fertilizer. If I exposed it to more light, its leaves would turn a reddish hue, but I like it just the way it is.

Monadenium genus is in the Euphorbiaceae family and comes from tropical East Africa. There are 50 species of Monadenium, and they are usually deciduous. The loss of leaves in the fall signals the start of its winter dormancy, but that has yet to happen with this one, so I continue the water as long as it has leaves. Pink flowers (actually cyathia) come just before dormancy, but since this plant has yet to become dormant, it hasn’t produced cyathia.

The M. ritchiei cannot take temperatures below 50˚, so it comes in the house with other sensitive plants in November and stays there until about mid-February. I've read that plants with moderate dormancy needs should not be tricked into an eternal summer state by bringing them in the house in winter as this can kill them after a year or two. But, since cold temperatures can also kill this species, I have a dilemma.

Lucky Day--7/7/07.

The date 7/7/07 comes up just once this century, so enjoy it. However, I'm old enough to remember last century's 7/7/77. Now that was really a lucky day!

Orange Jubilee

My garden, dormant now for the summer, and doesn’t have much color at all. I'll continue to have a cactus flower now and then, but other than that, not much happens in July and August. The exception is the good old reliable Tecoma X 'Orange Jubilee', a cultivar of the Tecoma. It has flowers year-round as long as we don't have a hard freeze as we did this past winter. At temperatures in the mid-teens, it freezes back. That’s what happened to my plants this past winter, but they quickly recovered and are now almost six feet tall and are again producing hundreds of trumpet shaped flowers.

Although I don't own any, Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans) is anther popular Phoenix area plant. It is used frequently as a landscape plant in shopping centers and streetscapes, as is Orange Jubilee. This is a sure sign it needs very little care. Yellow Bells, also called Esperanza in other parts of the country, does not grow as tall as Orange Jubilee and its bright yellow flowers are a bit different, but it is as lush and pretty as Orange Jubilee.

Thank goodness for the Orange Jubilee in my garden. Without it, I would have a dull summer landscape. The verdant foliage and gold-yellow, orange striped flowers keep right on going, no matter how high the temperature gets. As an added bonus, Orange Jubilee attracts dozens of hummingbirds all day long.

Sun Struck

This plaque on my patio wall is supposed to be a reminder that it could be worse, but it's not working. It's hot as hell! As we go into our tenth day of temperatures 110˚ or higher in Phoenix, we will tie a 1989 record. If we do it again on Friday as forecast, this string of scorching days will stand alone as the third longest of all time. Some record to beat! Such heat is debilitating, even in the shade. It sucks the life out of you, and it even affects cacti and succulents that normally take full sun in Phoenix.

Even they can't take the prolonged sun intensity and are showing signs of sunburn. I noticed today that the Golden Barrel (Echinocactus grusonii) on the left is showing signs of sunburn along the top portion of the ribs that face west. The Echinocactus genus, with proper acclimation, does well in Phoenix in full sun, so this sunburn is a surprise, especially since the south facing portion is ok. Since the tissue is still yellow, there’s a chance it will recover once the weather cools. If the tissue turns white, it signals permanent damage, and that tissue will never recover.

Although the Thorncrest Century Plant (Agave lophantha) on the right has some light afternoon shade, it is also showing a lot of sunburn, especially on the west side. I usually place 30 percent shade cloth over several Agave specimens in my garden, but I don’t bother with the two A. lophantha specimens. They have a thorn configuration that makes it impossible to remove the shade cloth once it catches on their thorns.

Going To Seed

The seedpods on this pair of Mammillaria sp. (probably matudae) have been slowing ripening for the past month, and I've already collected many dried seedpods for possible future propagation.

I say possible because I've never been big on seed propagation. It takes several years of work and care for seedlings to grow to the point of flowering, and I've never had the patience for it, but after my recent success with Coral Aloe seed propagation, I may try my hand with some of the cactus seed I've collected this year.

The initial problem with sowing seed is separating the tiny seeds (each about the size of a grain of sea salt) from the pulp found inside the pods to prevent rot. The seedpods I've collected from these Mammillaria really aren't that difficult because the pods dry and then it's just a matter of splitting the pod and spilling out the seeds into a container. With other genera, the seedpods, or fruits, are sometimes a lot larger and filled with mucilaginous pulp. Trying to separate the seeds from pulp in those larger pods is impossible for me to do. I'm just too impatient.

An M. matudae specimen in a four-inch pot is available in any local nursery for about $1.99. When I think about that, I really wonder if it is worth my time and effort to sow seed. Perhaps not.

Greasewood, The Perfume of the Desert

When I purchased five Greasewood bushes (Larrea tridentata) for my garden, my husband couldn’t understand why I would actually pay for the ubiquitous desert plants. He thought the scraggly shrubs were a waste of money because they weren’t much to look at, and they were so common where development hadn’t occurred that he thought of them as desert weeds.

I, on the other hand, love the Greasewood, alternately called Creosote or Chaparral. I’ve never met anyone who grew up in the desert southwest who didn’t appreciate the pungent, astringent odor of Greasewood and damp soil after a desert rain. Perhaps it is because rain is so rare that anything associated with it is memorable, or else it’s that clean, crisp perfume of creosote that permeates the air. As a Midwest native, my husband associates creosote with telephone poles, not rain. When he thinks of rain, he recalls the smell of fresh green grass. In the many years he’s lived here, he’s still unimpressed with the smell of the desert after a rain.

The Greasewood’s small resinous leaves feel sticky and it is the resin that perfumes the air during periods of high humidity or after a rain. In the desert, the Greasewood will only get three or four feet tall and wide. When planted in a garden where water is available, it can reach up to 12 feet in height. My Greasewood shrubs, planted two years ago, are now reaching five feet high and wide.

Greasewood competes for water with other desert plants. Its extensive roots system puts out chemicals that repel the growth of surrounding vegetation, allowing the Greasewood to take advantage of the limited moisture without competition from other plants. Cacti can grow near the Greasewood, and the shrub will act as a nurse plant to the small cacti.

Soon, our rainy season will begin here in the Arizona desert. Even as temperatures reach 118˚ and the small increase in humidity can make this season almost unbearable, I do look forward to the coming rains, just for a whiff of that wonderful fragrance.

Lil' Wooly Booger Cactus

This is my tiniest cactus—a Discocactus buenekeri—which is a true miniature and one of the smallest species in the genus. It is a mature specimen, and it’s only 1-1/2 inches high and wide. It won’t get any larger. Since it is mature, it puts all its energy into producing the little wooly top, or cephalium. The size of the cephalium on this specimen is as large as the cactus body! Currently there are only seven known species in this genus, which is native to Brazil’s tropical forests and currently on the endangered list in habitat.


The wooly cephalium is from where the flowers emerge, and the flowers can literally sneak up on you! They seem to pop up in just a few hours and bloom when the sun goes down. Last year, I didn’t even know it produced a flower and had bloomed until I stepped out on my patio, and a powerful gardenia-like scent permeated the air. Its one flower had actually perfumed my entire patio. This species usually blooms in April, May, or June, but last year, this one waited until August. With its stealth approach to flower production, it could be that I missed earlier flowerings and don’t even know!

The D. buenekeri produces many offsets that I remove and pot. I now have about 16 offsets growing from this specimen, and have given away at least that many. If I catch it flowering this year, I’m going to collect the seeds and try my hand at seed propagation.

I bring this cactus and all the offsets in the house in the winter because this species does not like temperatures under 50˚. I keep them on the dry side all winter, and then in spring, they go back outside in a shaded area during their growing period.

Euphorbia Aeruginosa

Finally, some new growth has begun at the tips of the stems of my tiny four-inch Euphorbia aeruginosa (minor). Since nothing happened last year, and we're already two months into summer now, I was starting to worry that my watering schedule had somehow contributed to its lack of growth. I kept it dry all winter, a necessity for this South African summer growing succulent, but then I thought perhaps I had stunted it by withholding water too long. Seeing the new growth is a relief, because I really like this plant.

The Euphorbia genus contains over 2000 species, and many that I've seen are nothing to look at, but I think this species is the most attractive with its angled blue-green stems and maroon hued spines. In the spring it produces yellow cyathia (an inflorescence consisting of a cuplike cluster of modified leaves enclosing a female flower and several male flowers) that linger for weeks.

The E. aeruginosa can be found in three varieties--minor, major, and nova. The minor is smaller and has thinner stems, the major can grow to about 12 inches, and the nova has thicker stems and smaller spines. I've tried to find a large specimen to place in the garden, but I've only found the E. aeruginosa in four-inch pots. It does well in Phoenix in light shade, and it can take some frost. I think the E aeruginosa would look especially nice planted in a grouping of three--if I could just find it somewhere.

The common name for E aeruginosa is Miniature Saguaro, but that's a real stretch. There are no similarities whatsoever. It makes me wonder how the various common names of plants came into existence, especially when they are so far off base.